Captain Baxter – Dani Valent

Upstairs, St Kilda Sea Baths, 10-18 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda, 8534 8999

My score: 3.5/5

The spot that used to be vegetarian canteen Soulmama is now Captain Baxter, a huge, handsome beachfront hangout for drinking and eating. The dining area and deck offer 180 degrees of bay – it’s tempting to say that the view never gets old except that it kind of does when the sun sets onto your dinner plate and turns the room into a glary hotbox. Window shades are expensive but they’re crucial.

DJs and a bright, shiny bar crowd can make this a noisy place but the mood is happy rather than raucous. Many drinks have a St Kilda theme, linking to the historical Captain Baxter, a convict ship captain who was granted St Kilda’s first grazing lease in 1839. The Monk of Kilda, a cider cocktail served over crushed ice, is a refreshing knockout. If your gang can agree on a fancy tipple some cocktails come in jugs too.

The large kitchen points to a serious food angle that pushes beyond the oysters, prawns and pork rolls available in the bar. Chefs Danielle Rensonnet and Shaun Clancy are just back from three years in Spain and there are definite Mediterranean leanings in their menu of big flavours and bright colours. Among the small plates, the cuttlefish is a cracker, the subtle shaved seafood contrasted by chunks of sobrasada, a looser version of chorizo. Just as pretty and tasty is a poached veal dish with peas and anchovy relish. Quail – a little too pink – is served with a seductive dressing of almond cream and fat raisins. Larger dishes include red curried snapper fillet, grilled in a banana leaf to keep the fish moist. Sides are good: the salt-roasted potatoes come with a spicy duo of sauces, and a grain salad is tossed with mulberries and lively hazelnut dukkah. Desserts are oddly unseasonal – apples and pears while the markets are full of stonefruit and berries – but there are no complaints about a layered rhubarb pannacotta that’s all saucy jiggle.

Good glassware, cutlery and textured crockery add to the experience. Waiters in preppy uniforms are amenable and reasonably well-drilled, though it’s a shame none of them can reach to the back of the deep horseshoe booth tables. Why do designers play tricks like this on their fellow humans? Nevertheless, this is a fun place in a great spot with fine food so I’m happy to say ‘aye aye’ to Captain Baxter.

Click here to visit their website.

More bayside:

Stokehouse Cafe, 30 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda, 9525 5445
Downstairs at the Stokehouse is now an easygoing indoor-outdoor grill and bar with pizza, burgers, chilli dogs and music every Sunday from 4pm.

True South, 298 Beach Road, Black Rock, 1300 878 360
There’s no beach view but the Argentinean food and craft beer is drawcard enough. Try the crispy school prawns with almond spice salt.

The Rocks, 1 Schnapper Point Drive, Mornington, 5973 5599
Freshly shucked oysters, local steamed mussels and battered bay flathead are among the seafood dishes you can eat here on the deck or in the dining room with water views.

First published in The Age, January 13, 2013

2017-09-18T17:14:05+10:00

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