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142 Bridge Road, Richmond, 9078 0113
My score: 4/5
Restaurants keep opening with a fervour and frequency that’s both exciting and concerning. They do not all thrive. That’s why it’s a thrill to come upon a place driven by passion and piercing vision of what it might mean to dine in Melbourne today: a place like Mister Jennings, owned by chef Ryan Flaherty (ex-The Estelle, El Bulli and Fat Duck) in his first solo venture.
Mister Jennings feels like a chef’s restaurant – striving, clever food; a menu dominated by small dishes that allow the cook to shine; 35 seats – but there’s equal consideration for diner desires. If you feel like steak and chips your meal will be cooked with love, and if you want to taste a few wines without tipping from tipsy to tanked the 100ml pours will appeal. There’s wit and spirit in the frozen kangaroo, an instant signature dish of spiced, icy roo shavings, wasabi and avocado puree, and shimmery veal and red wine jelly. The dish plays with a classic preparation (carpaccio, often frozen so it can be thinly sliced, then thawed to serve) and with Heston-ish notions of temperature trickery (but using a freeezer instead of, say, liquid nitrogen). It highlights process by leaving the meat frozen, so its flavour is a slow reveal, and honours a native ingredient to boot. Crucially, it tastes great.
This food made me think but there’s no obligation to be reverent, no hovering waiter speechifying while you bow over each plate. Some dishes lend themselves to a simple “ooh” and “yum”: a celery and mayonaissey mound of crab meat emerging from peppery tomato soup; battered white sausage on a stick; a chocolate extravaganza that works in citrus, spice, crunch, cold and hot without feeling like it’s trying too hard. Mister Jennings is new, raw and fun, and infused with hope and energy. If this is Melbourne dining, then count me hungry.
See their website.
More mister mister:
Mr Tulk, State Library, 328 Swanston Street, Melbourne, 8660 5700
Named after the library’s first chief librarian, this cafe covers off staple breakfasts and lunches with efficiency and aplomb. There’s a buzzy happy hour on Fridays.
Mr Wolf, 9-15 Inkerman Street, St Kilda, 9534 0255
Karen Martini’s pizza place is celebrating 10 years. To celebrate, she’s accepting submissions for a new classic pizza for the Mr Wolf menu. See mrwolf.com.au for details and to buy tickets for a pizza event on Sunday August 24.
Mr Hive, Crown Metropol, 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank, 9292 8300
The in-house restaurant at Crown’s boutique Metropol has an unthreatening modern French approach, a handy selection of steaks, and a five-course dessert degustation.
First published in The Age, August 10, 2014.
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