Nshry: 129A Beaconsfield Parade (opposite Kerferd Road), Albert Park, 9682 1077
My score: 2.5/5
Let’s start with what’s great about Nshry (say ‘noshery’): the burger makes me glad I’m a creature with opposable thumbs perfectly designed for grabbing delicious items and heaving them mouthwards. The beef patty is slathered with ‘umami rub’, a salty mix of kombu and porcini powder that amps up the already tasty medium-rare mix of Angus and Wagyu mince. (Umami is the so-called fifth taste, the quality that makes things mysteriously moreish.) Parmesan, another umami-rich substance, is melted, crisped and layered on a brioche bun with gruyere, mushroom sauce and roast tomato. Crisp onion rings, creamy coleslaw and cornichons are on the side. It’s a winner.
There were other things to like too. The breakfast menu includes interesting items like an exotic mushroom omelette, panko-crumbed corn fritters and the elegant jamon-wrapped asparagus with tempura egg and goat’s cheese.
Nshry is a smart glass box on the beach but it’s drafty in high winds. The sea view is terrific and on fine days the front porch is lovely. But on my recent visit the service was tentative and limp, and that goes for each of the four staff who attended us. They were pleasant, definitely, but they didn’t demonstrate the all-seeing smarts that are crucial to good service. The previous party’s crumbs remained on the table throughout our visit, it was hard to attract attention and, after we politely sent back a cold croque monsieur, it was returned just as tepid as before. The rigid cheese should have been a giveaway but no-one thought to check if we were happy. Where is the Supernanny for cafes?
My cafe latte was great: strong, smooth and rich with a lingering caramel taste. It’s made in a fancy Synesso espresso machine. There’s also the option of drinking single origin coffee brewed with a siphon (think Bunsen burner) or cold drip (slow filter). I’ve given alternative brewing methods a pretty good go (and I tried the siphon here) but I think of coffee primarily as a medicinal substance. Of course, I want it to taste great but I’m not sure I want to give it the same time and attention I might give wine. I’m guess I’m a third-wave coffee philistine.
Melbourne can definitely use more good coastal cafes. With a little nudge in the sharpish direction (and the bonus of a dinner menu in about six weeks), Nshry might yet be enshrined as one of them.
See their website.
More burgers:
The Bottom End, 579 Little Collins Street, Melbourne, 9629 3001
American diner eats are the deal at this new bar-disco-pub mash-up. There’s a mushroom burger with blue cheese, a cheesey bacon burger and a chicken burger with coriander salsa.
Little Press & Cellar, 72 Flinders Street, Melbourne, 9677 9677
Among the city’s best bites is the micro bifteki at the Press Club’s snackery. It’s $7 for a juicy Wagyu burger with beetroot, haloumi on a cute sesame seed bun.
Napier Hotel, 210 Napier Street, Fitzroy, 9419 4240
Bags a spot in the beer garden and put aside an hour to tackle the ridiculous Bogan Burger with steak and schnitzel or keep it nice by ordering a vegetarian burger with zucchini fritters.
First published in The Age, October 9, 2011
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