Oscar’s Hangout: 11 Hall Mark Road, Mordialloc, 9580 9941
My score: 3/5
Conventional cafe wisdom values street presence and foot traffic, lore that is successfully ignored in city laneways and, spectacularly, here in Mordialloc, at a cafe that’s so out of the way that the closer you get, the more you suspect you’re lost. That’s how I felt anyway, as an outsider. The 800 or so households in the Epsom Racecourse estate not only know where Oscar’s Hangout is, they also know what it represents: a community hub that’s more enriching than compost.
The cafe is in the old racecourse tote building (look for remnant betting windows in the brick structure). It faces parkland so kids can do handstands while parents do the crossword. There’s ample parking. Owners Brad and Carly Mill opened the place four months ago and named the cafe after their newborn baby Oscar who is now an Epsom estate celebrity. Brad Mill is a chef (recently at Beaumaris steakhouse The Grange) but he’s the face of this business, spending as much time as he can meeting and greeting, remembering the coffee preferences and dog names of his regulars, and manning the pans when required. (Mill is typical of Melbourne restaurateurs bemoaning a crippling shortage of skilled workers; the unfortunate outcome in his case and in many others can be uneven cooking, service and coffee.)
There’s nothing too outlandish on the menus here. The brunch menu is stacked with eggs but there’s extra interest in dishes like poached eggs with babaghanoush, flatbread, dukkah and a splash of truffle oil. I also like the signature big breakfast which includes chorizo, spinach and tomatoes and robust crumbed mushroom. Later, there are well-priced foccacias and a snacky menu of saganaki, arancini and the like, backed up by larger dishes such as lamb burger, eye fillet and masterstock-braised pork belly with pickled paw paw.
Possibly more important than all that is the welcoming atmosphere and extreme kid friendliness. There are clean highchairs, a baby change area, a drawing table and a general easy-wipe feel that keeps parents relaxed. The events roster is outstanding. Yesterday, a kids’ dance party drew 70 jiving youngsters. A dog show and teddybear picnic are coming up and plans are afoot for dads’ nights featuring red wine, steak and maybe even poker. It’s these responsive and community-minded initiatives that make Oscar’s the warm, buzzing hangout that it is. I’m glad I got lost to find it.
More suburban stars:
Cafe De Beaumarchais, 1/372 Mount Dandenong Tourist Road, Sassafras, 9755 1100
It’s easy to butter up a beau with the pastries here, whether it’s a savoury smoked salmon, fetta and dill tart or a sweet delight featuring Sicilian orange paste.
O’Heas Bakery & Deli, 203-205 O’Hea Street, Coburg, 9354 8070
The name doesn’t sound Italian but the deli meats, fresh ciabatta and super cannoli make intentions clear at this long-standing neighbourhood hangout.
Nabiha, 10 Hall Street, Moonee Ponds, 0400 937 418
The coffee is excellent and the Middle Eastern flatbreads are as fresh and funky as the uber-urban aesthetic.
First published in The Age, February 5, 2012
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