Prohibition Food and Wine

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1395 Toorak Road, Camberwell, 9889 2385

My score: 3.5/5

I’m not sure what prohibition sounds like but I don’t think it’s the sounds filling Prohibition: ice bopping in a cocktail shaker, an explosive roar of laughter from a high-topped table, the pop of a Prosecco cork and the happy whoosh of tap beer flowing into a chilled glass. Prohibition is a handsome and instantly popular new Camberwell restaurant in a corner bank building that’s now more brouhaha than balance sheet. The name references the eastern suburb’s infamous ‘dry area’, a set of recently relaxed regulations that made it annoyingly hard to slake an honest thirst but extremely easy to locate the moral high ground. As the rules have eased, Prohibition’s customers seem to be making a mission of celebrating the lapsarian flow of liquor.

Owner Wayne Stoll has watering hole experience at Prahran’s Mt Erica Hotel; chef Matt Barlow has cooked at Bacash and Cecconi’s. The menu is ‘modern bistro’, no particular cuisine, just an easy facility with European, Asian and Middle Eastern flavours sprinkled over the usual shareables, meat and veg dinners, and char-grilled steaks. Writing good menu is one thing but these dishes also pay off in the eating. They’re well-rendered, full of flavour and pretty to boot.

Confit garlic doughnuts might be this summer’s key drinking snack, with their crisp shells, light centre and sweet whack of garlic goodness. Braised octopus is succulent with a rich romesco base and a sherry hit in the vinaigrette. The seasoning is bang on. A main course of pan-cooked ocean trout is crisp-skinned and succulent, accompanied by a just-tender tumble of peas and beans dressed with lemon oil. Duck ‘cigar’ is the only misfire: the pastry flops and the Thai-style salad of snake beans is clunky and bland. Desserts come out swinging: caramel-sodden banana brioche pudding is as sweet and heady as the kiss that sings of true love; lemon posset (milk pudding) is demure but plies persistent citrus charms.

The prohibition era is over but there’s still opportunity to feel naughty here, by booking the private dining room in the old bank safe. It has a cave-like, speakeasy feel and is the perfect venue for end of year celebrations.

See their website.

More places to celebrate summer:

Entrecote, 131-133 Domain Road, South Yarra, 9804 5468.
‘Have a good time all the time’ is more or less the outlook here. The food is simple too: coffee and eggs early, oysters to carry you through and steak frites till late.

Toko, 142 Greville Street, Prahran, 9521 3155.

The food is upbeat and Japanese and there’s extra party action on the terrace. Ask about the ‘Whisky Lounge’ for private gatherings and consider Toko for a splashy New Year’s Eve.

Lady Carolina, 175-177 Lygon Street, Brunswick East, 9381 0898.
The food and booze of Mexico and Peru are the party-starters at this exuberant new restaurant and bar. The fun is out back in the astro-turfed garden.

First published in The Age, December 7th, 2015.