My score: 4/5
River Level, Southgate, Southbank, 9699 4600
When visitors arrive to Melbourne so does the where-to-eat wondering. A laneway coffee is probably compulsory. Splashing out somewhere like Vue de Monde or Grossi Florentino will appeal to some. Chasing a food truck or queuing at ChinChin is as uber-Melbourne as waiting for an Uber. And for a high quality, upmarket-but-not-overwhelming experience, Pure South is an excellent pick.
Southgate’s sterile interior doesn’t appeal to me but Pure South is on the riverside promenade, opposite the pedestrian bridge weighed down by thousands of love padlocks. The restaurant seats 110, including a lucky 30 on its sheltered terrace with views of Yarra amblers (and New Year’s Eve fireworks). It’s a lively setting.
The food and much of the wine is from Tasmania, which gives Pure South a conceptual anchor and produce-driven ethic that’s been consistent through its ten years of operation. Melbourne-born chef Ashley Davis started 18 months ago. Unlike many chefs who wangle Michelin stars onto their CVs, he earned his chops as head chef of Helene Darroze in London, taking it from one to two stars. His food is considered, deft and truly seasonal. Edgy dishes wouldn’t fly here but Davis finds byways and detours within broadly classical terrain. I loved the pork loin: perfect crunchy crackling playing off lightly crisp Vietnamese pancakes, meat juicy, seasoning bang on. The seafood ‘charcuterie’ plate is a spin around Tassie without the trouble of plane or ferry; the salmon rillettes are a rich highlight. Pepperberry pavlova is a pristine dome with a nicely judged spicy jab. The only misstep was a smoked Scotch fillet: infusing a beautiful grass-fed prime cut with oak smoke didn’t make sense to me.
Pure South is a tasty package; service is assured and the food has a story. Whether you’re treating yourself or bringing sightseers, you’ll enjoy Melbourne hospitality with a bonus gastronomic trip to the apple isle.
See their website.
More places to take visitors:
Mesa Verde, Level 6, 252 Swanston Street, Melbourne, 9654 4417
Hidden restaurants are almost as Melbourne as laneways. The Mexican-ish menu here is light-hearted and the tequila packs a punch. Try the corned beef tacos and share a pitcher of potent Paloma Grande. The Rooftop bar and cinema are one floor up.
West Beach Bathers Pavilion, 330A Beaconsfield Parade, St Kilda West, 9593 8833
Surely you’re taking your visitors for a wander along St Kilda Beach? You could do much worse than dally at this 1920s pavilion for tea and scones, or fish, chips and beer.
KereKere Green, Fitzroy Gardens Visitors Centre, 230 Wellington Parade, 0421 483 790
The food is fresh and simple at this cafe with a social conscience. Choose from toasties, sandwiches, wraps and homemade lemonade after a frolic in the delightfully shady Fitzroy Gardens, or grab takeaway on your way to the MCG Test match.
First published in The Age, December 28, 2014.
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