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Stratus 233: 233 Union Road, Ascot Vale, 9370 8971
My score: 3/5
Retail strips close to large shopping malls live (and die) in interesting times so full marks to long-time Ascot Vale resident Alex Marley for putting his money on the line in largely dreary Union Road rather than being seduced by the bright lights at nearby Highpoint Shopping Centre. Marley bought the shop eight years ago, then let it be as a hairdresser while he worked in corporate catering, gaining experience and gumption. In May 2010, after a comprehensive renovation, he opened an amenable restaurant that raises the bar for the area without giving local residents conniptions.
The large round ceiling lamp and fairy-lit wall of timber slats reference city restaurant Gingerboy and there’s a bit of Asia in the menu too. There are steamed prawn dumplings, tuna sashimi with ponzu dressing, and sticky beef ribs with black vinegar and chilli. The food treads a fairly safe path though, with the flavours doing more nudging than punching. I liked the shredded chicken on crisped wonton skins, overlaid with beanshoots, coriander and peanut sauce (the menu said ‘spicy’ but I’d call it shy). A duck dish features roasted breast and salty but fall-apart confit leg with bok choi and shitake mushrooms. It’s a good meal and, like everything here, generous in size.
There are Euro-skewed items too, including a popular starter platter with olives, chorizo and dips, and a beef extravaganza with roasted fillet, braised cheek, parsnip puree and red wine jus. The steak special always sells. Many dishes are gluten-free, which is great, but the vegetarian offerings could be more creative. Surely vegetarians cry inside when they see, yet again, that pumpkin pasta is their only main course option. Desserts are big and indulgent: the peanut butter and caramel parfait with white chocolate mousse is something of a cream-eating exercise but who doesn’t love a bit of exercise now and then?
I wouldn’t quite call the food inspired but I’d say the restaurant is. It has a mission and customers that seem engaged, whether they’ve come for all-day breakfast (braised ham hock, white bean and tomato cassoulet with poached eggs, for example), a lunch of angelhair pasta with peas, asparagus and ricotta, or a pre-dinner cocktail (try the house Stratusphere with vodka, Midori, Malibu, Chambord and pineapple juice). Stratus 233 isn’t rocking the world, and some of the service lacks polish, but it’s giving Ascot Vale a very welcome prod towards its potential.
See their website.
More Ascot Vale:
Carino Tapas Bar, 492-494 Mt Alexander Road, Ascot Vale, 9326 0328
Popular as soon as it opened in July, Carino’s well-priced tapas include sherry-seared chicken, caramelised chorizo and tuna empanadillas.
Arcadia Dining, 152 Union Road, Ascot Vale, 9375 2751
Spanish owners took over this cosy restaurant one year ago and they’ve got plenty of fans for their traditional paellas, sangria and churros.
Crumbs Organic Bakehouse, 170 Union Road, Ascot Vale, 9375 4777
Stratus 233 buys their bread here. Buy classic sourdough loaves, croissants, pizza slices and (on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday only) vegan sourdough donuts.
First published in The Age, October 16, 2011
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