Stray Neighbour

Here’s the optimistic bar and restaurant that will unpick any lurking jibes about not-hip-enough Depreston, one pint of craft beer at a time. You could think of Stray Neighbour as a gastropub in industrial skin: there’s an astroturfed beer garden out front and the massive ex-panelbeater interior has been gently demarcated into bar, dining room and handsome saloon with pool table. Tin ceilings and factory windows could make the place cold but the heating is good and a forest mural and swooping touches of green bring warmth and whimsy.

A local crew is behind the place; chef Romina Gagliardi lives in nearby Reservoir. She’s come from six years with Jacques Reymond, most recently as sous chef at the Reymond family’s Bistro Gitan. For her first head chef gig she got to choose the equipment for her spanking new kitchen. She’s repaying the faith with good food, cooked well, nothing too fancy. You’ll see familiar combinations and dishes along modern European lines: pork belly with properly crisp skin, cabbage and white bean puree; beetroot with goat’s curd; shatter-crisp creme brulee. There’s room to play too: instead of the ubiquitous salmon fillet, Gagliardi uses the darne, the cross-cut steak with spine, nicely grilled and topped with mustard and dill sauce that melts into braised lentils. Pissaladiere (open French tart with caramelised onion, olives and anchovies) is turned vegetarian with sweet roasted peppers, sauteed zucchini, globe artichokes dressed with creamy veloute, flurries of salted ricotta and dried black olive rubble over short, flaky pastry. It’s delicious.

The wine list is concise, the beer and whisky offering is exuberant, and the cocktails are unpretentious – someone had to bring the Cosmo back! Service is good despite a bit of early-days pressure but Stray Neighbour leaves little excuse to be Depreston.

See their website.

More neighbourly types:

Neighbourhood Wine, 1 Reid Street, Fitzroy North, 9486 8306.
Lucky locals and happy wanderers come by for lazy lunches (there’s a three-course Sunday roast for $35) and relaxed Euro-style dinners, boosted by interesting artisan wine.

Johnny Ripe, 284 Main Creek Road, Main Ridge, 5989 6515.
Produce from the local neighbourhood shines on the weekly restaurant menu, and in the delicious sweet and savoury pies available from the store.

Saint Urban, 213 Swan Street, Richmond, 8456 0933.
The wine-loving folk from Punch Lane in the city have brought their friendly, hospitable spirit to the inner-east. Pop by for oysters and a quick sip, or settle in for classy Euro meals and a bottle or two.

First published in The Age, August 16, 2015.