The red velvet pancakes at The Tradesman.
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1/260 Wickham Road, Moorabbin, 8525 0110
My score: 3/5
Local chef Raman Vohra noticed there was no actual force field around Moorabbin which made it impossible to have a hip cafe in the area. So, seven months ago, he opened The Tradesman to service the area’s many young families, tradies, dog owners and lovers of good coffee.
The cafe is in an industrial area on a busy road but it feels calm and welcoming. That’s a credit to the cool, clean, timber-and-concrete design, potted greenery and a dog-friendly entrance terrace. I spotted a hi-vis vest and bum crack on my early morning visit so the cafe is aptly named. It’s also a pram hub; there are toys, high chairs and a TV that knows how to find ABC3.
The menu is appealing and varied, checking off all the contemporary necessaries. There are extravagant desserts-for-breakfast, superfood catalogues rendered in tall glasses and colourful bowls. The lunch menu rattles through wagyu burger, fish tacos, slow-cooked lamb and pork bao: it’s like a food truck fair in one van-free room.
But back to brunch: my favourite dish is the slow-cooked rice pudding, sunny with saffron, scented with cinnamon and cardamom, strewn with pistachios, almonds and chia seeds. Red-wine poached persimmon pieces lurk in the black-and-white rice, a succulent, exotic touch. Like many of the dishes, there’s the hint of an influence from Vohra’s Indian background.
Every second person seems to be seduced by the red velvet pancakes, a spectacular stack of maroon fluff, topped with ice cream and brownie crumbs. Mascarpone and berries add bang for buck but I’d rather a syrup or coulis than the double dairy whack. Baked eggs are a straightforward pleasure, soft-yolked, with house-made napoli and a spicy mint and coriander sauce. Like many dishes a preponderance of micro-herby sprinkles coats the surface. I could deal with less of that. Pea and haloumi fritters are gorgeously green, the emerald ramped up by a dollop of avocado puree, and highlighted by corn and capsicum.
The coffee is good but lattes also come with turmeric or matcha, natch. There’s something self-conscious about the inner city smarts but it’s all rendered with good will and optimism. If you wanted a time capsule that said 2016 you could box up The Tradesman in amber and call it a job well done. But don’t do that – there are too many people enjoying the place and grateful that it’s there.
See their website.
More Nice Rice:
Merchant, 395 Collins Street, Melbourne, 9614 7688.
While the Rialto is being redeveloped, Merchant must be entered via the Intercontinental Hotel. Don’t let that keep you from lovingly made risotto. Keep it simple with risi e bisi (peas) or go classic Venetian with cuttlefish and squid ink.
Mamak, 366 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne, 9670 3137.
You could argue that nasi lemak, a Malaysian classic, is all about the condiments but that would not do justice to the steaming, gleaming coconut rice which is the real star.
Kong, 599 Church Street, Richmond, 9427 1307.
The fried rice with kimchi, beef brisket and egg is like the best leftovers meal ever invented and seems design to be eaten at 3am after an unremembered Uber ride.
The Old Raffles Place, cnr Johnston Street and Wellington Streets, Collingwood, 9417 4450.
Singaporean food is a mash-up of Chinese, Indian, Malaysian and Nonya influences and they’re all in evidence at this longstanding neighbourhood cheap eat. Rice dishes include the special combo with crab, chicken, prawn, cashew and egg.
First published in The Age, 7th August 2016.
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