Vyve – Dani Valent

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Vyve: 184 Burgundy Street, Heidelberg, 9458 2222

My score: 3.5/5

Restaurateur Angelo Pace and his Brazilian chef Bruno Machado have a pretty sweet business on their hands in hilly Heidelberg. Vyve, here since 2008, is an all-day cafe and restaurant that does quality breakfasts till 3pm. When a cafe makes its own potato roesti you know they’re serious about breakfast – these roesti are house-made, as is the jam, the mayonnaise and all the muffins. The cakes are bought in but, if you want something sweet and homemade, fight the crowds for Angelo’s mum’s vanilla slice. Mirella makes two trays every night to a secret and fiercely guarded recipe but they often sell out and, indeed, the last three – towering, flaky, appealing – were whisked to another table just as I opened my mouth to order one. Apparently the locals become very restless when Mirella dares take a holiday.

Vyve has a flexible feel: you’d be happy coming here with the pram for a coffee, for a glass of wine and a gossip on the couch or with a nice bottle for an anniversary. The waiters are welcoming and willing. You probably wouldn’t want to engage them in a detailed discussion about the wine but that’s okay, because Vyve’s short list is helpfully annotated. Our waiter did teach me how to pronounce feijoada (‘feh-sho-ah-da’), a Brazilian hotpot that lures many South Americans to Burgundy Street. This slow braise of black beans, pork belly and hock is rich, sticky and satisfying. One-pot dishes, especially dark and sloppy stews, aren’t the easiest to present well, but Machado does a good job with his feijoada, serving it in a bright red ramekin with two attending ramekins holding rice and sautéed cavolo nero which stands in for the traditional collard greens.

The feijoada stars on a lunch and dinner menu that’s split between Brazilian and Mediterranean dishes. So, along with burgers, pastas and beer-battered fish there are empanadas filled with chicken bound with bèchamel sauce, beef croquettes touched with thyme and bay leaf, and grilled fish that’s served with samfaina, the Latin version of ratatouille. Chicken breast is stuffed with an oozy mix of quinoa, goat’s cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. It’s simple but nicely done. A creamy potato and fennel galette, heaps of broccolini and glossy chicken jus round out a satisfying meat-and-three dinner. The juicy free-range chicken is just one example of a commitment to excellent produce and high standards at a restaurant that’s proudly local and decidedly good.

See their website.

More South American:

True South, 298 Beach Road, Black Rock, 1300 878 360
Argentinian food and microbrewed beer make a fine mix in this modern pub. The better-than-average kids’ menu includes calamari and beef rib.


Helados Jauja
, 254 Lygon Street, Carlton, 9041 2927
Patagonian-style icecream is definitely what Melbourne has been waiting for, especially when the flavours include popcorn ‘n’ nuts, dulce de leche and balsamico.

First published in The Age, August 26, 2012

2017-09-18T17:26:05+10:00

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