77 Murrumbeena Road, Murrumbeena, 9077 4217
My score: 3/5
Allergies, intolerances and special diets aren’t going anywhere anytime soon so canny chefs know where gluten, nuts and fructose lurk and they accept that gelatin and chicken stock have no place in otherwise vegetarian dishes. Entice, a modest, welcoming year-old restaurant in the south-eastern suburbs, is one restaurant that’s responded to today’s phobic diners with an allergy-aware menu. The restaurant is simple but comfortable with homely touches and a funny little courtyard out the back.
The menu is a safe stroll through contemporary Australian cuisine with lots of chicken breast, baby spinach and rocket. Flavours are honest and mild. Cooking is competent and done from scratch. Most dishes are gluten-free or can be tweaked to suit; other dietary preferences are happily accommodated. Service is willing, though on my visit suffered at times from Quiet Restaurant Syndrome: as custom peters out, service tends to match it. It’s a mysterious phenomenon which I’m sure is covered in the rules of torpor. The wine list is accessible, full of names you’ve seen in Dan Murphy’s catalogue.
It’s easy to share a few starters. Salt and pepper squid was grilled to cheeky curls, served over a neat little mint, watermelon and palm sugar salad. Witlof and asparagus salad was given a lift with mauve pickled quail eggs. Zucchini fritters were fresh and herby but their crisp, coloured shells gave way to a stodgy middle. Among the larger dishes, paprika chicken was simple and pleasing, with moist slices of breast laid over a baby spinach salad with creamy dressing and retro grilled pineapple and bacon bits – all easy to enjoy. Thick pork loin was rimmed with pistachio crust (deleted for those avoiding gluten) and an orange and rocket salad. Desserts were weak, compared to the savoury dishes. The Murrumbeena Mess was a pallid excuse to eat cream and the icecream sandwich tasted flat and fridgey.
The restaurant has recently opened for lunch and apparently the owner’s invention of cobbini – a pizza in a halved cob loaf – already has fans and the steak sanger has the local tradies excited. The Entice deal is further sweetened with Pasta Tuesday dinners. Locals are also encouraged to wander over from the train station after their evening commute for a circuit-breaking glass of wine before heading home – enticing indeed.
See their website.
More allergy aware:
Fox in the Box, 169 Martin Street, Brighton, 9596 0133
Gluten and onion never darken the door at this high-spirited cafe, which also specialises in FODMAP meals for people with irritable bowel syndrome. There’s a pizza and pasta night on Thursdays.
Gili’s, 539 North Road, Ormond, 9576 9985
The Yemenite slant to the menu at this friendly cafe lends itself to gluten-free and vegetarian dishes like falafel. If flour is no problem the malawach bread is flaky and fabulous.
Kumo Izakaya, 152 Lygon Street, Brunswick East, 9388 1505
Dedicated menus for those avoiding gluten, alliums, seafood, lactose, eggs, animal products and more are available at this Japanese dining and drinking hall.
First published in The Age, March 17, 2013
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