Pinocchio: 358 Hampton Street, Hampton, 9598 4188
My score: 4/5
When Pinocchio opened in South Yarra in 1971, pizza meant doona-like dough bases piled with industrial ham and elastic cheese. Gourmet offerings stretched to pineapple and anchovies. The South Yarra institution has moved with the thin-crust roasted-veg fresh-and-herby times and, since August, it’s been joined by an impressive bayside sibling which recalls Crown’s sleek, upscale Giuseppe, Arnaldo and Sons more than it does the pizza joints of yore.
Renato Chilelli is the owner of this huge, groovy no-bookings restaurant, the South Yarra stalwart and the Michelangelo restaurants in Burwood and Aspendale Gardens. In a major coup, the group’s executive chef is Lorenzo Schiaffini, who was part of Jamie Oliver’s A-team overseeing the opening of ‘Jamie’s Italian’ restaurants in the UK. The food here treads something of a Jamie path (rustic, full-flavoured, clever without being tricky) but it doesn’t feel generic, a criticism that has been aimed at Oliver’s chain.
The entrance is dominated by a wood-fired pizza kitchen framed by enormous jars of Nutella (lovers of dessert pizza rejoice). There’s a handsome charcuterie display featuring free-range Australian pork products and premium imported prosciutto. A bar operates as holding bay for hawk-eyed table hoverers. The main kitchen out back turns out joyous modern Italian food, presented with flair and cooked with skill. I enjoyed delicate but assertive fried zucchini flowers stuffed with a lemony mozzarella mix, the crunchy crumbed sardines slathered with pesto, and fat oyster mushroom slabs wrapped in pancetta then grilled. Crisp, thin pizzas come with lively topping combos (try Biancaneve with pesto, goat’s cheese, roasted pumpkin and semi-dried tomatoes). They’re available by the metre if you want a pizza feast. Dish of the night was the pollo alla diavola, chilli-marinated chicken, slow-cooked sous vide to keep it super juicy, finished in the pan with breadcrumb crust and served with heirloom tomato salsa. Let’s just say I was planning to share it until I tasted it.
Wheat-avoiders may be lured by the wholesome spelt risotto with salt-baked salmon. Families will appreciate the baby changeroom and the pre-6.30pm kids’ menu (though our mini lasagne was dry, in the night’s one miss). The operation feels professionally underpinned but service doesn’t always live up to the food, especially during the evening crush, when aimlessly meandering waiters are not a great look.
See their website.
More pizza:
Ladro, 162 Greville Street, Prahran, 9510 2233
Another offshoot from a famous original, the Prahran Ladro is a fun place for drinks, salads and of course, ace pizza, including gluten-free.
Supermaxi, 305 St Georges Road, Fitzroy North, 9482 2828
Rita Macali’s restaurant is brash and fun with great pizza (like the GTV with grilled eggplant) backed up by good salads and sides.
Motorino, 29a Vernon Street, South Kingsville, 9399 2121
If you can look beyond the spaghetti with garlic and tiger prawns, you’ll find smashing pizza like the beetroot with goat’s cheese and caramelised onions.
First published in The Age, December 18, 2011
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